Assuming you know little to nothing about organic gardening, let’s make certain you understand what it is. Quite simply it means you are going to plant your garden without using synthetic fertilizers, for making the plants grow and chemical pesticides to control the bugs.

To really maximize your garden, it’s best to have a detailed plan. And the best time to formulate your plan is in the fall, right after the fall growing season ends. The reason for this is you will have time to prepare the ground before the spring planting season begins.

Perhaps the most critical thing you must do before anything else is to select the optimum location for your organic garden, or for that matter any garden. Your plants will do extremely well if they can receive about six hours of sunlight per day. In almost all cases positioning of your planting area in the southeast part of your ground will give more than adequate amounts of sunshine. Also make sure your ground has easy access to water and the ground has good drainage, to allow water run off and aeration of the ground.

Once the proper location has been determined the next step is preparing the ground where you will be planting. This means it’s time for the physical labor part. You are going to till the ground using a yard fork or a tiller, then get on your knees to start pulling weeds, grass and removing the rocks. To make the weed and grass removal successful you should perform the initial removal, then go back a couple of weeks later and remove any weeds and grass which have grown up in the meantime.

Now it’s time for you to actually determine what your selected ground is going to need, in the way of the proper nutrition to help your vegetation grow. You do need to have the soil tested for the proper ph level. If you’re not sure you would do an accurate job of this take a sample of your soil to your local nursery or garden center and they can do this for you.

Once the testing has been completed by the nursery folks they can tell you exactly what kind of natural fertilizers and pest control product you will need. While you are at the nursery or garden center you should ask their advice on the proper plants and vegetables which will grow best in your treated soil.

In conclusion this guide has given you the basic things you need to start your organic gardening project the right way. It has covered the location of the garden, the sunlight exposure, preparation of the ground prior to planting and the proper nutrition your ground will need. Organic gardening is not as complicated as it seems.

The first misconception most new organic gardeners have about their soil is that any thing can grow in any type of soil. All you have to do is throw a few seeds in the ground and boom you have a natural garden. You need to lose that preconceived notion if it applies to you.

You must take into consideration the overall climate conditions which will impact the soil. An example of these things would be rain, wind, temperatures and exposure to the sun light. Then the next thing to consider is the amount of rocks and density of the soil.

An example of bad density soil would be where the dirt is tightly compacted and allows for no circulation of air or moisture. To have good organic gardening soil it must be loose, with excellent air and moisture circulation. Not to worry though because one of the things you can do if your dirt is tightly compacted is introduce earthworms to the ground and allow them to do their thing.

Frankly though the earthworms take time to create their magic and they have a tendency to get out of the designated planting area quickly. However, there is a simple solution to that problem and you will help improve your soil quickly.

You can go to your local nursery or hardware store and purchase organic soil by the bag full or even by the truck load. Many organic gardeners will put this soil on top of their compacted soil and then plow it into the regular soil. However, for this method to be effective you must have enough organic soil to be from a minimum depth of three inches up to six inches or more. The great thing about it is as you repeat this procedure through several growing seasons you will soon have brought the life back to your original soil.

Another tip about your soil is the proper levels of phosphates, hydrogen and acidity in the soil. This is often times referred to as the ph factor in the soil. It’s quiet easy today to go on the World
Wide Web and order a testing kit for your soil. However, one of the best ways to determine if you have right kind of soil for organic gardening is to take a sample of your soil to your county agriculture agent or to your local nursery. For a small fee or no fee at all they will tell you everything you need to know about your soil.

In addition to providing you the information about your dirt they can also advise you as to the best type of plants that will grow in your soil. Furthermore, they are a great source for additional tips on growing an organic garden successfully.

These tips are just a few of the things about your organic gardening soil which are important. To really get ahead of the game on your soil you should continue to further your education.

A great many people have the mistaken belief that gardens planted without chemicals were begun by the rebelling “Hippies” and “Flower Children” of the 1960’s. The author suspects strongly that your forefathers would find fault with that belief. The truth is that as more and more media attention was given to the “Hippies” and “Flower Children”, many people were hearing about organic gardening for the first time, but it has been around for centuries upon centuries.

A lineage of farmers which has practiced all natural growing for centuries is the Amish farmers. Even in today’s modern world, with man made chemical fertilizer, weed killer and pesticides, these amazing farmers continue to practice all natural crop growing with truly phenomenal results. It’s not only here in America that “organic” growing is practiced. Many of the countries around the world still use century old methods of natural growth.

Another myth about natural growing of your garden is that you will never be able to keep all the pest and bugs out of it. People believe that without using chemical based and expensive pesticides, you just can’t control bug infestations. Again it just ain’t so. One of the best all natural ways to control the pest is to use their mortal enemy. Birds! But then you ask “How can you attract enough birds?” You create an environment around your garden that is friendly for the birds.

One of the best ways to draw the birds early on is place a birdhouse or birdhouses which are made especially for the type of birds which frequent your area. Not only do you furnish a nesting area for them but make water fully accessible to them. You can put something as simple as a small container filled with water or even go for something much more sophisticated, like a running fresh water fountain. Once the birds have been drawn to your garden and realize they can feast on your bug infestation your problem will be solved in short order.

Frankly, with more research on the internet or a visit to your local nursery, you will become knowledgeable and see the truth about organic gardening. The real truth is it’s a great way to improve your families health and help restore “Mother Earth” to it’s own good health.

Planning your vegetable garden is a must. It’s a rare crop in unusual circumstances that can simply be grown from throwing some seed into the ground and harvesting a few months later. Laying out the proper size and location, preparing the soil and making compost are only few activities that need to be done before ever planting a seed.

Fertilization needs to be done before vegetable plant seeds are planted and while they are growing. Which kind and how much depends on the species, the soil type and other factors. There are a wide variety of choices today and in each case the directions have to be carefully followed. Over fertilizing leads to burning. Using the wrong type will kill a plant more often than using none at all.

Consider whether you want to use strictly organic methods of vegetable gardening, or whether you will rely on modern aids. Not that those two methods are necessarily opposed. It’s becoming more difficult to tell the difference all the time. Traditional organic techniques have been informed by modern science. Modern science has advanced to see the wisdom of incorporating many natural compounds and processes to produce the safest result.

Watering is critical. Here again, not too much and not too little is key. Soils vary a lot in how effectively they’ll drain or retain water. Species vary in how much water they need. How much water is right is also influenced heavily by temperature and humidity. When to water is equally important. Cool nighttime temperatures can encourage fungi and water left on the leaves makes it almost a certainty.

Weed control is a never ending battle. They spring up in the most unexpected places. But they’re not the only form of life that will cause trouble for your vegetable plants. Pests and diseases are an ever present threat. Keeping them under control doesn’t have to be a war, but it is a perpetual detente.

Before getting started, investigate which plants to sow. Personal taste will play a large role, of course. Some people don’t like onions, others can’t stand broccoli. But the soil and climate will have much more to say about the success of your efforts than a child who doesn’t like spinach.

Tomatoes, for example, are a great vegetable. Tasty, versatile and very healthy. But they like lots of hot sunshine and most varieties are very sensitive to frost. Planting a number, then having your effort ruined because of a hornworm or an early cold snap is a disappointment you don’t need.

Whether you want to grow indoors or outside, in a large plot of earth or in small containers, vegetable gardening will bring many rewards. Putting in a modest effort will bring them forth.

As with any vegetable or fruit, preparing the soil properly is paramount. Use a soil testing kit to make sure the pH is about 6.0, a little more alkaline than many vegetables see as ideal. pH can be adjusted up or down with sulfur or lime. A soil temperature of about 60F/15.5C is best.

Good drainage is important for growing good pumpkins. Too much clay in the earth will retain excess moisture. Soil that is too sandy will lose water. A good sandy loam is best. You can adjust the consistency by adding compost, breaking up clay, adding topsoil and other common methods.

Planting in small mounds is a favorite technique. Be sure to leave plenty of space from one plant to the next, though. Pumpkins grow large and they like to have lots of sunshine, water and earth all to their own. From 4-6 feet (1-2 m) apart is best. If you like to plant in rows, keep those 6-8 feet (2-2.5 m) apart. The surrounding ground should not be planted with other vegetables.

Daily watering would be overdoing it for these plants. But when you do water, make it ample. Pumpkins like a good soaking that puts water down deep into the soil. Provided you have soil that drains properly, a drip irrigation system will put plenty down where it needs to go.

That style of watering will also help avoid some of the common diseases that attack pumpkins, such as downy mildew. It’s caused by the Pseudoperonospora cubensis fungus and growth is encouraged when the temperatures are lower and the leaves are moist. It will appear as yellow spots on the foliage. As the disease progresses it turns brown, then black. Along with proper watering practices, ample space encourages good air flow, which helps to reduce the odds of disease.

Powdery mildew is a similar problem, caused by a different type of fungus. It appears as a white mold on the leaves. Unlike downy mildew, however, this type tends to occur in warmer weather. But it is encouraged by the same bad watering methods. That’s actually good, since one good technique can combat multiple problems. Compost tea is useful for these problems, too.

Unfortunately, fungi aren’t the only enemies of pumpkins. Cucumber beetles are a common pest for this plant. Squash bugs also like pumpkins a little too much. Thick mulch helps minimize their ability to lay eggs.

Many growers will plant ‘trap crops’ to lure the insects to sacrificial plants in order to retain the more valued pumpkins. Companion plants such as catnip, marigolds and mint will help keep the squash bugs at bay, for example.

With a little care pumpkins will be ready for harvest in 3-4 months. Then you can carve one up and have pumpkin pie just in time for Halloween.

All vegetables get water and nutrients from the soil. In some cases, the ground won’t already have the needed compounds. In others, previous plantings over many years will have depleted them. Either circumstance can easily be remedied with a few simple actions.

First, know what you’re starting with. The best way to find out is to purchase an inexpensive soil testing kit. These easy-to-perform chemical tests will provide accurate information on nutrient levels, pH and other helpful data. For more accurate tests, you can seek out the local Extension Office of a university. They often work with local planters to provide information about the environment, including soil composition.

pH levels can be adjusted with the addition of small amounts of sulfur or lime. Some plants prefer earth that is slightly alkaline (basic), others do better in slightly acidic soil. A garden underneath a pine tree, for example, will tend to be slightly acidic because the needles that fall give a small amount of acid to the dirt. A medium level is best for most vegetables, with a pH between 6.0-6.5.

There is some mechanical preparation to be done as well. Depending on the soil type you have – very clay like, sandy, sandy loam or a mixture – you may need to do more or less tilling. Rototillers can be rented. If you have a large area that you’ll replant year after year it may be worthwhile to endure the one time expense and buy one, however. You’ll use it more often than you suspect.

The soil needs to be aerated and turned to provide oxygen and the right mechanical support balanced with the right degree of freedom for the roots to spread. Very compact soil makes it difficult for nutrients and water to flow and drain. It keeps roots from moving down to reach lower water levels and provide stronger support against wind.

Any weeds present should be dealt with at this time. The more you do now, the less you need to do later. Many won’t appear but will have seeds present ready to sprout after you plant. A soil preparation mixture that prevents weeds from starting is a good idea. It’s much easier to apply before you plant your vegetables and it won’t harm them once you do. They’re designed to kill weeds, but not other plants.

You might want to lay down a weed control fabric before planting. That creates a cover that makes it more difficult for weeds to develop, by denying them sunlight. It also provides a physical barrier that makes it harder for them to rise up.

Now is also a good time to attack insects, bacteria and other things that will eat your vegetable plants later. Some organisms are helpful. Milky spores, for example, are bacteria that interrupt the growth cycle of the Japanese beetle larvae. As they develop they eat roots. Laying down the appropriate mixture of pesticides can be safe and effective and will cover a wide range of potentials pests. Preventing a small problem is always easier than solving a larger one later.

Preparing the soil before planting will pay off many times over later. The savings in effort, time and money will help produce the best vegetables possible from your garden.

Weed control is an ongoing task, but one that is made easier by employing a battery of methods.

One of those methods begins before the first seed is planted. Proper soil preparation can help reduce the problem before it begins. Churning the soil by a good tilling prevents weeds from getting started and disrupts the growth cycle.

Seeds will remain, but putting down a weed control fabric over the topsoil can help. It blots out needed warmth and light and provides a physical barrier that makes it more difficult for them to rise. Mulches provide a natural cover that will help suppress weeds. Manure, bark chips, sawdust, leaves and other forms can block sunlight.

Laying down a pre-treatment, such as a pre-germinating herbicide can prevent weeds from ever developing that might already have seeds in the ground. Exercise care to get the proper one. You don’t want to make the soil inhospitable for your new vegetable seeds and transplants.

Proper seed selection will help, as well. Some fast growing, shading vegetables will block sunlight that weeds need to develop. They’re sometimes called ’smother crops’. As they spread out under the soil, they help crowd out the weed roots, thus providing double prevention. Planting them at the correct depth, with the right fertilizer and water, will give them a head start against weeds. Their action can sometimes even help over winter to suppress weed development.

When weeds do get started, it’s best to try to remove them mechanically right away. That’s more difficult because there is less to grab onto. But the larger they grow, the more their roots spread.

We often think of weeds as isolated plants, but an ‘underground view’ shows that they’re more like a tree on its side. The ‘branches’ are just the weed part that sticks up above ground. The ‘trunk’ is the web of material that connects them all. Getting one just disconnects that ‘branch’ from the ‘trunk’. But the smaller they are the less time they’ve had to branch out. Getting one helps prevent their spread.

Hoes, weeding forks and other tools can be a big help here.

But when all those methods still don’t entirely eliminate weeds – as they probably won’t – don’t be afraid of using a chemical herbicide. Take care to find one that will take out the weed and not your vegetable plant. But once you do, they can be used safely and effectively. Chemistry has developed a great deal in the past 50 years and there are many that are actually less harmful to you and the environment than some natural methods.

Manure is an excellent fertilizer in many applications. It provides a nitrogen rich additive to the soil that helps many vegetables thrive. But the odor, and to a degree the toxicity to humans, can be drawbacks. Bird droppings and other forms of animal waste often contain viruses and parasites that can be harmful to humans and other animals. Used properly, it’s an excellent tool. But nature is not always benign. It must be handled with care.

Compost made from leftover food, straw, grass, leaves and the like can make an equally good soil additive. But compost piles do attract insects that feed off the decaying organic matter. Take care when preparing and using it in your vegetable garden.

Biological control of insects is another method popular among organic gardeners. It has many advantages. Insect and pest populations can be kept under control by introducing predators that eat the harmful insects but not the vegetables. That reduces the need for artificial chemicals. But selecting which ones are beneficial, and ensuring that they don’t then turn on the vegetables, can take a lot of research and continual adjustment.

Planting trap crops that lure insects away from vegetables to ’sacrificial’ plants is another form of biological control. It has the same advantage of reducing the need for artificial chemical control, or passively accepting a reduced crop from insect damage. But those crops take up time, space, water, fertilizer and other things that could be used for more vegetables.

It’s also true that the chemical compounds used in many insecticides are often derived from natural sources. Strictly speaking, there’s no such thing as a non-natural source. All chemicals produced artificially for gardening have their origins in compounds found in the environment.

Pyrethrum, for example, is the base of one of the most popular forms of insecticide. It is used in cans of wasp and other insect sprays and a wide variety of other applications. Yet, it is derived from the blossoms of the pyrethrum flower (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium). Most people would think of it as an artificial insecticide, yet it clearly has its origin in a completely natural plant.

Nicotine, by contrast, is a natural organic chemical used as an insecticide. And it is very effective. It is also highly toxic to humans, dogs and wild animals. It should be handled with care. Here again, ‘natural’ or ‘organic’ doesn’t always mean safe under all circumstances.

Natural, organic mulch is a very helpful soil protector. Leaves, wood chips and other materials from the environment can help retain moisture, or stave off insect and weed invasions. But using black plastic is another very popular (in this case, artificial) mulch. It is great for weed control. It doesn’t harm the local environment because it doesn’t decay or give off toxic fumes. It can even help with pest control by enhancing solar irradiation.

Which method to use is a matter of individual preference. But modern chemistry has come a long way in the past 50 years. Used properly, contemporary chemicals are safe for the environment and those who consume the vegetables. At the same time, traditional and modern organic methods have a useful role to play in good vegetable gardening practices.

You can certainly avail yourself of the seaweeds and kelps of your local beaches. If you happen to be fortunate enough to live near the coastline, the next time you go for a walk, why not take along a large bucket to collect it in? It can be added whole and fresh right from a local source. Or it can be used as mulch added between plants in your garden. Since seaweed is typically 70% water, it breaks down very quickly. Don’t forget to rinse off the seawater first, though, because the saltiness discourages earthworms.

Take care to use only seaweeds that are harvested in waters that aren’t contaminated by pollution. Also, you’ll want to check local regulations on harvesting seaweeds and vegetables since some beaches have been over harvested or there may be notable concerns with pollution in the water.

For those who don’t have access to a local source or don’t care to harvest it fresh, there are more convenient ways to buy seaweed fertilizer. It’s as simple as buying it by the bag or bottle at your local garden store or nursery.

A common formulation is known as kelp meal, which is a dried granular form of sea fertilizer. This is suitable for adding to your potting soil before planting, or turning into your beds as you prepare to plant in the spring.

Look for other kinds of seaweed fertilizers in both liquid and powdered forms. These are the ones most commonly used for foliar feeding or watering on the soil. Each comes with its own special recipe that makes the product different.

When you can’t find a product locally, or you just like the convenience of ordering your product online, there are many retail and wholesale outlets that sell seaweed fertilizer products. You might even find a greater variety online.

If you have any questions at all about where to buy seaweed fertilizers, remember you can contact a gardening group in your county or on the internet. Ask them about their favorite seaweed fertilizer product and how they use it on their gardens, as well as any special information for your locality and for the particular plant in question. This way you can know for sure how to best use the various products out there.

Organic seaweed fertilizer adds important minerals and starches to your soil that feed the humus. As you might expect, much like taking vitamins and minerals to help your body’s health, so it goes for your garden. It’s long been known that the soil on our farmlands has been depleted of essential elements due to overproduction of crops. Seaweed, when added to the full complement of soil amendments, can improve the soil and thus increase the quality and quantity of the harvest.

It stands to reason that by adding organic seaweed fertilizer to your own garden, you’ll start to notice amazing changes in your plants as they take in the minerals and trace elements that this miracle product provides.

Seaweed and kelp have a bulky appearance when they are fresh, much like any land vegetation. When they dry out, they look sort of sad and limp. But when added to soil, they supply a vast array of nutrients, not the least of which are alginates. These are the starches in seaweed. Although the alginates don’t actually bulk up the soil, they do act to clump soil particles and hold moisture near the roots, which is what you want.

Like tiny sponges, these starches hold onto microscopic water droplets. Experts tell us that plants don’t like “wet feet”, which means the root system must be well drained. At the same time, moisture needs to be available to the roots in small amounts. Enter the seaweed, an ideal solution to this problem.

A second important benefit of these alginates is that they act to feed the microorganisms in the soil, which in turn break down the soil so that it may be better assimilated by the roots.

Before any plant root system can take in nutrients, these potential nutrients must be chelated or made “user friendly” for those roots. The tiny bacteria that live near the plants roots feed on these starches, which are supplied by vegetation such as seaweeds.

For anyone desiring an all-natural way to bring nutrient to their plants, seaweed products are the best choice. The sea contains a complete array of minerals. Because of this, seaweeds are the most complete source of plant-based minerals. They are more quickly assimilated by the plant’s root system and therefore the whole plant. As an addition to an organic garden, kelp meal or seaweed fertilizers can make the difference between a ho-hum garden and a vibrant, healthy one.

Why not join those who know that adding organic seaweed fertilizer to your garden can mean the difference between average output and a bumper crop?